The end of the road is an interesting place to arrive at. Especially when it holds the kind of mystery that Moosonee does. It’s one of the oldest settlements in Ontario, was home to the iconic Hudson’s Bay Company for hundreds of years, and was accessible only by canoe or ice road until the 1930s. There’s a sort of intangible mythology to this part of the north, things you think you know or have learned, but once you’re here, you realize understanding is way beyond your grasp.

The train from Cochrane travels through changes in scenery, as the trees get smaller and more sparse. Finally, at the 140 mile marker, there’s a huge bridge over the wide and shallow Moose River (apparently the pilings sink two feet into the river bed when the train passes overhead). That’s when things really start to feel otherworldly.

Disembarking into a flurry of locals greeting familiar faces, we made our way to our accommodation, the beautiful Moose River Bed & Breakfast. Our host Candice shared some fascinating stories of her childhood in Moose Factory, and sent us off on our adventure across the water. We wandered through town, which spans several blocks between the train tracks and the river, where we found the water taxi dock and set off across the river to explore Moose Factory Island, the site of the old British Moose Fort and the Hudson’s Bay fur trading post.

We had no idea what to expect as we wandered up the hill from the dock and around the main road, which takes you from the old powder blue hospital, built in the 1950s to quarantine TB patients, in a loop around the shoreline of the island to Centennial Park, where all the old HBC and old fort paraphernalia is housed. Along the way we followed a dirt track along a glorious view of the water, and passed the site of the old mission school and an Anglican chapel built in the 1850s, and in the process of being restored by the community.

On the water near centennial park is the fur press, in the photograph. Trappers would bring their furs to trade for rifles; stacked one on top of another and squeezed down by the press, they had to be as tall as the rifle was. Staring out at the river, it was easy to feel the past.

Tomorrow — heading to James Bay in a boat with Nolan and Jenn from Moose River Tours!

Photo by Alexandra Sawicki

Today, it was all about the animal kingdom. The Very Large Animal kingdom. In the south of Ontario, the biggest creatures you’ll find are coyotes or deer, or maybe a garbage engorged raccoon. Up here, the average mammal size seems to be upwards of 500 pounds. And today I would estimate we visited with approximately 4000 pounds of mammal. And some very uppity fowl.

We were greeting this morning at the Cedar Meadows Wildlife Park in Timmins by Elmer, a very heavy and steadfast bison (we later watched as he triumphed in a standoff over a bucket of grain with a disgruntled territorial swan.) Soon we were joined by several elk and some adolescent moose, and Brutus, an even bigger bison. We learned, and maybe I’m the only person who didn’t already know this, that moose by definition are eaters of wood. They’re also fairly slow eaters, since they only have teeth on the bottom of their mouths. The park crew run two wildlife tours a day, in a covered wagon, and will tell you many more interesting things about the animals. Although guests stay in the safety of the wagon, the animals are not shy and will come right up and nibble on anything that sticks out. We got into a showdown ourselves with Oscar, the grumpy swan, on our way out — he was upset I think that the tractor had dared pass by his pond twice, even after the warning he’d given it the first time — and he refused to move from between two wheels, biting at the tractor furiously. Jamie, who was late for a meeting, decided he didn’t have time to wait for Oscar’s tantrum and bravely shooed him away with a couple leafy branches. Oscar was not amused, but Jamie did make it to his meeting on time.

We headed north on the quiet highway 655 to Cochrane, where we were lucky enough to be the first to meet the new polar bear, Ganuk, at the Polar Bear Habitat. Only two and half years old, Ganuk already weighs 650 pounds and is well on his way to a full adult weight of over 1000. Playful and curious, Ganuk peered through the windows of the viewing pool and watched us all quizzically as he chomped on a carrot or two. It was quite a unique experience.

Then it was off to dinner at JR’s BBQ Ranch, where we feasted on racks of perfectly done ribs with honey garlic and barbecue sauce and an amazing baked potato. We dined with my winsome cousin and his lovely lady, who have just relocated to Cochrane and who filled us in on the best things to see and do.

Tomorrow — the Polar Bear Express to Moosonee! We’re spending the summer solstice as far north as we can possibly get in Ontario. A whole ‘nother world…

Photo by Alexandra Sawicki

On the roads of the little clay belt, along highways 560, 65, and 11, we’ve been noticing colourful decorations on the front of many barns. They are quite beautiful, bright geometric patterns, presiding over busy farm yards, gardens, junk piles, and pastures. We’ve been asking each other for the last few days what we think they are. Today we learned that they are the family quilt pattern. Like tartans and crests, each family has a distinctive pattern (even the Georgia-Pacific log sorting facility on highway 11 has a quilt up between the gables — it’s a tree made of many triangles).

The quilt in the photo hangs next to a buffalo skull on the barn at the bison farm on highway 560. No name, the owner said, as she waved us on to the field where the animals were lazing, we just call it the bison farm on highway 560. They sell a lot of their organic bison meat to Pam at the Eco Lodge. She also told us the bison were shy — and they were, standing up to inspect us when we were still more than 200m away, and hightailing it for the forest behind their pasture when Alexe wandered to the fence for a closer look.

It’s such a beautiful, peaceful area up there in the little clay belt. Coming around some of the bends today on the 560, the green opens up and just stretches away from the road for miles to the north, all the way to Timmins, really. The road follows the water at some points, gentle curves swooping almost on top of shimmering tree-lined lakes. If you’re not in a hurry and all you’re looking for from the day is a few delicious meals, a sunny dip in a beautiful remote lake, and maybe a bag of cheese curds or some Mennonite cherry pie, it’s really a great place to stop for a day or two. (And there are also many fishing and hunting lodges for longer vacations).

We ended up in Timmins today after a full day of driving — we had some errands to run, and a Yamaha to drop off in Latchford — at the Cedar Meadows Resort & Spa. We spent the evening in and out the steam rooms, hot tubs, saunas, and temperate pool in the Nordic Spa, and Mike even scored a massage. There is nothing better after a long day on the road.

Tomorrow– Cedar Meadows’ owner Richard Lafleur is taking us on a tour of his wildlife sanctuary, then we’re off to the Polar Bear Habitat in Cochrane to visit Ganuk, the new polar bear! We’ll be finishing the day with a feast of ribs at JR’s BBQ — Day Two of Mike’s training regime… wonder what he’ll get to eat?

Photo by Alexandra Sawicki

I just want to say, that if you are ever in the Elk Lake area on Mother’s Day or Father’s Day, please go straight to the Elk Lake Eco Centre for the best brunch I’ve had in perhaps my life. It’s a beautiful room, the dining room at the Eco Centre. And the food is really pretty. There was a toast station with homemade breads, bagels, english muffins, local fruit homemade jams and preserves. A griddle with perfectly done sunnyside eggs and baguette french toasts. A crock pot full of maple syrup baked beans. Then: breakfast potatoes with arugula (see Mike’s Ode to a Fried Potato), mennonite pork sausages with roasted apples, local bacon and ham with pineapple. Freshly made waffles with real whipped cream, mixed local berry coulis and real maple syrup. Yogurt and fruit salad with homemade granola. A cheese tray with local cheeses and fresh fruits. Apple, orange, cranberry, grapefruit juice. Fresh coffee and tea with all the dressings. AND DESSERT: banana bread, pecan squares, nanaimo bars, carrot cake. And I don’t want to seem particular, here, but it was $12.95! I want to do it again.

When we had everything digested and could move again, we piled in the truck and headed out to visit AJ Acres, a local family cattle farm in Kerns Township. We visited with Allan Aitchison and his wife Joanne, and their son Jody and his wife Tammy, to talk about farming in the area. The family has been farming that property for several generations, raising Charolais and Angus for beef and some bulls for breeding.

The cows cooperated and moved in for their close-up.

Then it started to pour with rain so we headed home to the Eco Lodge to have another delicious meal of homemade meatloaf and mashed potatoes with Pamela, before heading out on a bear hunt! (A photographic bear hunt from inside a moving vehicle. I stayed home and did the laundry).

Tomorrow–the buffalo farm on highway 560 and a visit to Thornloe Cheese on highway 11, then off to Timmins for a private spa at Cedar Meadows Resort & Spa! So excited.

Photos by Alexandra Sawicki

Sooooooo.

We started the day like normal people waking up on a beautiful sunny Saturday morning in a provincial park campground. Kelly and Jamie went for a swim, Alexe did last night’s dishes, Bogdan hunted fruitlessly for a laundry area, Mike said a private eulogy for his fallen comrade, I made breakfast smoothies. By the time we were ready to roll out it had become apparent that no one except Jamie had any kind of cellular reception. At that point, it felt kinda nice. A forced day off, sort of.

We headed up highway 144 toward the watershed, the latitude at which rivers and streams flow north instead of south. Kelly hopped on the back of Mike’s bike so I scored the luxurious shotgun seat in Jamie’s jeep: A stereo! A sunroof! AIR CONDITIONING!  We stopped for lunch at the Watershed Restaurant at the junction of 144 and 560 and headed on down the road in convoy. After a few minutes to stretch our legs by the water in Gowganda, we were back on track and perfectly on time to be at the Elk Lake Eco Centre  at 3pm to start our tour of local little clay belt farms.

And then the right tire on the trailer blew. Jamie and I watched it happen, a slightly larger than usual poof of gravel as the trailer caught some air off a shallow crater in the asphalt, then the rear right-hand corner of the box dipped lower and lower as parts of the tire flew at 100km/hr toward us. As we pulled over behind the truck and trailer, Jamie said he knew we were in for a long afternoon, but I naively figured we’d throw on the spare and be on our way in like half an hour. But he was right.

Basically, we were missing a lug wrench and the spare was flat. And we had no reception. By this point, it felt a little less nice. Finally Mike and Kelly returned to see what was holding us up, and joined in the melee. It was a four-hour ordeal. I think Mike got heatstroke. But it was actually pretty fun. We had lots of company stop and say hello and assist with the process, and Jamie got to the know the road into Gowganda pretty well because he went back and forth seven times to borrow a wrench, fill up the spare, and return the wrench. For the first time on the trip there was absolutely nothing to do but sit and enjoy the scenery while we waited for the tool and the tire. The rest of the time there was more sweat, grease, and sun burn.

By the time the light changed from maximum exposure to slightly less than maximum exposure at around 6:30pm, we were driving rather gingerly the last 60km toward the Eco Lodge and the lovely Pam who had a delicious buffet dinner ready for us in the cozy dining room.

Day 17 – We’re gonna try and visit the farms we missed today, and do some more eating at the delicious Eco Centre! And remember to call our dads….

Photos by Alexandra Sawicki 

Mike, Bogdan and Jamie spent the day in Sudbury running around collecting all the parts and pieces to try and get everything back into fighting shape: an oil filter and oil for the Yamaha and a new hose and regulator for the propane tank, and they fixed the Chevy’s gas leak. Alexe and I got some work done in a coffee shop in the morning then stocked up at the grocery store for our barbecue with Jamie and Kelly at Halfway Lake. We picked them up at the Sudbury Tourism office–and crashed Kelly’s co-worker’s baby shower in the process (thanks for the cupcakes!)–then headed up the 144 to our campsite at Halfway Lake Provincial Park.

While the rest of us set up the tent-trailer, Mike attempted to resuscitate his old friend with an oil change and a new oil filter in the bed of the pick-up truck. We all gathered around with fingers crossed and our hearts in our throats as he pressed the starter… and pressed it again. Leaned on the kick-starter as hard as he could.

She didn’t turn over. She barely even coughed.

We said goodbye.

Then we went swimming. With ice cream and a couple of beers.

Tomorrow–to the Elk Lake Eco Centre! We’ll be visiting local farms where they source the food used in the Eco Centre kitchens. And hopefully we’ll be eating some of that food too.

Photos by Alexandra Sawicki

For an office day, we sure spent a lot of time on or near the water. I guess that’s just how it is with Killarney–if you’re not out in the Bay in some sort of water vessel, you’re lounging on the rocks, swimming in a sheltered alcove, or hiking the woods or coastline to get to some spectacular vantage points over the water. There is no end to the choice of water activity here, from fully catered cruises on the glorious inland fjord of Baie Fine to relaxed evening kayak trips to the end of the channel to watch the sun set. Sparkling emerald, indigo and blue, golden marshmallow, or deep deep green–wherever you are it’s a different hue.

Alexe and I started the day with a wander out to the East Killarney Lighthouse, a twenty-minute walk down a trail from the front gate of the Killarney Mountain Lodge or a 3-minute ride down a packed dirt road off the airport road. With marshland and bog and lilypads on one side of the road and the rounded pink granite of the Killarney bedrock on the other, the walk up to the lighthouse from the parking area is just a summer daydream, basically. Monarchs frolicking in the sunshine, the waves of the bay rushing into the rocky shoreline, and little hidden nooks and crannies in which to lounge the day away.

We returned to the Sportsman’s Inn just in time to find Mike embarking on his first voyage of the day–which you too may experience in the ‘Boating Adventure‘ video–and then headed off to the Killarney Mountain Lodge, where we indulged in a swim before dinner, with views of the channel from the vintage turquoise swimming pool.

After our meal, we set out on a lovely paddle to the end of the Killarney Channel to watch the sun set in the shelter of George Island. Guides Jake and Tony entertained with stories and history of the sights on the channel.

I. LOVE. THIS. PLACE.

Tomorrow–stay tuned for Episode 2 of our Ultimate Northern Ontario Road Show and see the people and places we’ve visited up close!

Photo by Alexandra Sawicki

“There’s no place to go but the enddddd.” – Mike Jacobs, soothsayer

(I think I will start every snapshot from now on with one of Mike’s pearls of wisdom).

As we ponder whether it’s the end of the road for the Yamaha (and we don’t know yet! Hold onto your condolences for now), we find ourselves at the end of a road–highway 637–in the bucolic waterfront town of Killarney. And quite literally right at the end of highway 637 is Herbert Fisheries’ fish and chip bus, poised on the bank of the Killarney Channel, greeting us with the mouth-watering aroma of deep fryer as we rolled into town. Pretty much as soon as we parked the bikes and truck at our hotel we were lining up for our four-piece fish dinners, and grabbing a few tall cans at the LCBO next door. We took our picnic back to the covered veranda outside our rooms at the Sportsman’s Inn, and enjoyed our meal watching the summer rain fall on the green waters of the channel.

Checking in to the newly-renovated Sportsman’s Inn was one of the greatest luxuries on the trip so far–airy, spacious rooms (with fireplaces!) opening onto a wrap-around veranda overlooking the finger docks of their marina and gas dock. It’s a destination equipped with everything you could possibly need at the end of a long and winding road–fine dining restaurant, waterfront pub, gas pump, kayak rentals, conference centre, bait&tackle and all kinds of other amenities. It’s located in a hub of outdoor activity–great hiking, canoeing, boating, fishing, and swimming are all within minutes of the front door.

It is also the end of the road for our adventure with Glenn & Gwen, owners of Motorcycle Mojo magazine, who leave us tomorrow to continue their tour of Rainbow Country on the lazy backroads and spectacular shorelines of Manitoulin Island. Check out the August issue of the magazine for a story of their time riding the Nipissing Circle Tour and Northern Coastal Georgian Bay with us.

Tomorrow – exploring Killarney! And maybe some laundry….

Photo by Alexandra Sawicki